The formulation of natural beauty products is an ongoing adventure. According to Dr. Barbara Olioso of the Green Chemist Consultancy at her recent In-Cosmetics North America marketing seminar, The Journey of Sustainable Cosmetics, at the Javits Center in New York City, the perception of what is crucial in marketing “green” beauty products varies around the world in different marketplaces. For example, in North America, good health and wellbeing is a top concern for shoppers while in France, a responsibility for “life on land” matters to most.
 
“Certifications play a critical role in not only finished products but raw materials,” noted Olioso in her presentation. “Consumers want to see ISO 14001, RSPO and UEBT.”
 
Olioso cited Kiehl’s packaging initiative a few years ago as an outstanding example of a green beauty endeavor. The skin and hair care products company allowed consumers to return empty bottles, tubes and other containers to US stores for recycling or upcycling with TerraCycle.
 
Upcycling and #zerowaste are also top concerns, she added, along with cold-processing to use less energy, formulating with less hazardous ingredients and making more concentrated products which has rejiggered the detergent market in recent years.
 
Olioso knows a thing or two about the industry; she is a doctor of chemistry from Venice University in Italy and combines her scientific background with a passion for botanicals and sustainability applied to cosmetics. Olioso has been formulating natural and organic cosmetics since 1999, developing skin care and professional hair care and international spa brands. She is also a member of the Royal Society for Chemistry and the Society of Cosmetic Scientists.
 
Overall, consumers are more aware of sustainability and expect some kind of action and commitment, according to she insisted.
 
“Sustainability is complex and multi-faceted but still is approachable in the journey,” Olioso said. “Your supply chain and suppliers are essential. This is a time of great opportunity for brands and raw materials suppliers.”